Day 1 Tromsø
We traveled by boat through the fjord surrounded by mountains and arrived to City of Tromsø. Our ship docked at 2:00 pm Sunday. From the bridge we observed the main city center, highly developed, and two high bridges spanning over the waterways connecting this location to the other developed areas and villages off both coasts of this island city. There are also 2 underwater tunnels connected to the mainland and 2nd island.
Tromsø will be the most northern city of our trip; we are now at nearly 70 degrees north. The sun will set today at 12:34 am and rise at 1:04 am. The city is 217 miles north of the Arctic Circle.
After hotel check in, we quickly head out to the tourist information office, great service and some extra critiques of certain guides and tours. We decided to purchase the Classic ticket package allowing us to visit 5 main attractions at a discount. On the advice of the agent, we cancelled our pre-booked reindeer excursion.
We then took a nice walk around the city center and nearby harbor area. The main street called, “Storgata” is a pedestrian only stone tiled 2 lane street and walkway with many fine shops, restaurants, and city squares accenting government buildings, churches, statues, and flower gardens. More on these sights later. The harbor has been gentrified from ship building docks to multiple 10 storied modern apartments with balconies and eye catching exterior finishes. The local yacht club with extensive walkable breaker wall remains nearby. We enjoyed the breaker walk curving around the docked sailing boats and near to the in port Cruise ship. Such modernization may be perfect for the Detroit waterfront redevelopment announced last week- we think.
Since it is Sunday, again we only see a few tourist out on the streets and most businesses are closed. We will revisit the area and head back to our hotel for simple soup dinner with fresh bread cooked up by Janet. We often cook for ourselves, coffee and breakfast for sure, but for other meals as the schedule and our will dictates. This hotel room offers full kitchen. Plus, tonight we are going to the “Midnight Concert” at the local Lutheran church. Doors open at 10:30.
Outside of church at 10:30 pm, no darkness this day
The alter
We were headed first in line but some tourist ladies sprinted ahead. This was a wonderful concert of Norwegian folk songs, organ pieces, and vocals. As you enter this rather large church your eyes are immediately drawn to the cascading blue lighting at the altar, with prominent grand piano and side grand pipe organ. As we comfortably settle into the frontal pews with the hand carried seat cushions, we notice something spectacular. An historic original oil painting 2 stories high towers over the center of the altar surrounded by that blue lighting. It is wonderfully unique, showing Jesus breaking out of his tomb terrifying two roman soldiers with an angelic figure standing to the side. We had not seen that biblical passage portrayed at the Alter in any church before—and we have been in Christian churches aground the world. Then, in two stained glass windows on either side of the painting we interpreted as Mary and Joesph holding the baby Jesus up to God affirming God’s plan to usurp the serpent. The other glass window displays Jesus on the cross with Mother Mary lovingly held by John, the Apostle; “behold thy mother.” These were powerful images, and particularly impactful in this otherwise simple décor of the Lutheran church. As we gaze at the church the organist raises up the rumble of the bass pipes and proceeds to play the Norwegian song “The Last Spring”. He is joined by a superb female vocalist with an operatic range. They are joined by a wind instrument expert who plays saxophone and brass clarinet. They combine for nine pieces, with the organist moving to the grand piano. The performers are inspiring, the acoustics are wonderful, the surroundings were so reverent—Some of us shed a tear…Good night.
Day 2 Tromsø
Woke up to a message that our morning walking tour canceled. We did a quick pivot and found two self-guided tours on our app, so we are off— the narrators overlap sparingly, to mostly cover different sites and points of interest. We really love this city.
Next, a quick stop for food shopping, lunch and off again. The aquarium called The Polaria specialized in seal training, arctic fish and other critters. It is a very modern angular building with several transparent walking tunnels under the the seal exercise pool and other fish tanks. The six seals feeding presentation was stressed to be training, with the function to challenge and motivate the seals, not a carnival act—no high splashes here. The trainers were very professional.
The museum
Our next stop was up the hill to the end of the island and the Arctic University Archeological Museum. The most important exhibits here dealt with the “Sami” culture, the indigenous most northern tribe of people. They have their own language and a flamboyant form of dress that that is fashionable. Having lived, worked, and survived in the frozen north for centuries without much contact with the southern Norwegians. The Sami tribe taught the Norge how to survive this land with new hunting/survival tactics and reindeer cultivating practices. The cultures have now merged. During the transition, these natives are described as ‘Sami language speaking Norwegians.” The story of the Sami is complex, beyond anything we cover.
At this exhibit and the others we have toured, we are reminded of our own history of our Native American. We want to learn more of these proud people and have committed to do so.
By now we had exceeded our steps count challenge for the day. We navigated the local bus back to hotel, nice local salmon prepared for dinner by Janet. Did some blogging. Watched some TV. Goodnight.
Day 3 Tromsø
Happy Birthday—It is Janet’s birthday
We start the morning revisiting the tour apps and follow up on other sites. The most interesting was an elevated circular hill now covered with grass that acted as the barrier for the first Tromsø Fort overlooking the old harbor area, the same area where the yacht club sits. There were no ramparts. There had been a minor moat surrounding the hill. Cannon were displayed as part of the effect. This was more like a giant fox hole.
The Fort
Across the street from the fort was the Tromsø Polar Museum, housed in a series of connected older wood buildings. As its name implied, the museum depicted all aspects of life, adventure, survival, and history of discovery in the polar arctic circle. This turned out to be a magnificent little museum, be it only traditionally displayed and communicated. No electronics here. But every corner had another tidbit of information. The “Fram” ship and crew started their famous exploration of the Arctic Circle from the Tromsø harbor. Walk-in log huts for the stranded crew re-created. The Fram and other polar information, photos, and biographies are presented, with dog sleds, traps and weapons for hunting displayed too—maybe too vividly.
Next stop is the the cable car up the mountain across the fjord. We can see it from the city but the distance is too far to walk. We take the bus expecting to cross the fjord by the bridge, but instead this bus takes an underwater tunnel. We think we are going the wrong way. But, another nice bus driver, calms us and lets us know when to get off and to take the short walk to the cable car entry point. We have lunch with a seat at the window, what a view.
Happy Janet selects one soup, two desserts for lunch—white cake with raspberry and crème frosting and apple pie. Lunch with sweets for Janet’s birthday.
We go back outside and take a walk on the paths that move us higher and get different views including the massive down hill Ski Jump built in the distance.
Down the cable car and return to ground level. We walk to the massive Arctic Cathedral of Tromsø. This is a stellar looking Lutheran Church that is a very modern ‘A’ framed structure with multiple peaks that harken to mountains. The ‘A’ framed entry wall is entirely of stain glass. Beautiful!
When entering the church your eye is engaged with another beautiful A-framed stained-glass window behind the alter, that offers an important theme. At the top, the “Hand of God” reaches down emitting three lightning bolts, one toward the crucified Jesus, two other bolts angle toward the figures of one-man and one-woman on each side of the Jesus on the Cross. It is spectacular. Finally, just as we turn to exit the church, we notice the massive pipe organ on the second level over the entry door and the organist in position. The gentleman organist has powered up the pipes and starts to play, and play he does for a long time. What we heard and witness is a professional organist visiting from Waco, Texas (yes-saw the sign) practicing a few hours before his scheduled recital that evening. What a treat!
We cross back over the river by walking on the high bridge that we find is closed to cars but open to pedestrians. Later, we head to Janet’s Birthday dinner at a flashy restaurant specializing in sushi dishes. Very nice-good food and good Saki, sorry forgot pictures
Day 4 Tromsø
The library
Nice late start. This has been a change from our first large trip, our new habit is later starts, so relaxing. Since the sun never really sets, we have flipped our internal clocks, staying up past midnight, out late, sleep in.
It is raining again and we make decision not to go to the last museum. We head to the local library. This is excellent library, not the first we have looked at in Norway, but our first visit. We had a guide tell us that the Norwegians invest heavy in their libraries, first to encourage learning and reading but also since the winters are so long, cold and dark, it is a meeting and gathering place for all ages, how fantastic. This one was complete with indoor bike racks, great wi-fi, coffee/soda machines and a place to eat a meal. Settled in, we do some blog work before heading to airport for Sweden. See you in Stockholm.
Goodbye Norway, we love you, but ready to move on.
Arctic Cathedral